Toso – spiced Japanese Sake
This drink is drunk during new year’s to celebrate the coming of a new phase and is especially popular in the Kansai region. The sake is infused with spices and it’s said to signify flushing away previous year’s bad luck and to aspire to live a long life. According to Japanese folklore, a person who drinks Toso will prevent his family members from falling ill.
Toso is made by combining several medicinal herbs to form tososan (屠蘇散, tososan), a spicy mixture, which is then soaked in sake or mirin. If made with mirin, essentially a sweet sake, it is suitable for drinking, but using fermented mirin seasoning would not be appropriate as it is too salty.
Three sizes of cup, called sakazuki (盃, sakazuki?), are used starting with the smallest, and passed round with each family member or guest taking a sip. Drinking rituals differ by region, but in formal situations would proceed from youngest to eldest. This tradition originated in China whereby the young effectively test the drink for toxins. However in Japan, around the beginning of the Meiji or Shōwa periods, custom changed and the head of the household usually takes the first drink.
The tradition of drinking toso at the New Year began in the Tang Dynasty in China, and was adopted by Japanese aristocrats during the Heian period. The first cup drunk would be made with tososan, and the second and third cups with different varieties called byakusan and toshōsan.
The drinking ceremony finally passed to the general public and doctors would give out tososan. Even today some chemists shops have retained the custom and give tososan away as a free gift at the end of the year.
The custom is now mainly limited to Kansai and west Japan; in other regions celebratory o-toso at New Year is often plain sake without tososan.
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